MOUNTAIN BIKING TIPS

(remember - rubber side DOWN)

The Fit: The correct fit is perhaps the single most important factor to enjoyable riding. It is very important to choose the right size bike and then adjust it to the individual for optimum riding. To size a bike correctly, stand over the frame between the seat and the handlebars. You should be able to raise the bike off the ground by two to five inches. If you can't, the bike is probably too big for you. Under demanding riding conditions, you will want to be able to quickly reach the ground when necessary. Next, set the seat to the right height. In a relaxed position, you should be able to extend your leg and touch the pedal at its lowest point with the heel of your foot.

The Trail: Roads are usually wide enough for a four-wheel drive vehicle to comfortably pass. They are nice because they are always well-mapped and well-maintained, generally providing a more relaxed ride. It is common to encounter stunning vistas along these routes which open up to panoramic splendor across tranquil valleys. The other variety is hiking trails. These are "one lane" trails, often not wide enough for two bikers to pass. These are fast, fun rides in which technique plays an important role. The turns are occasionally abrubt, there is more debris across the path, and water runoff often creates the need for quick maneuvering. Quick decisions, accuracy, and split-second reactions are all part of the game here, and well worth it! But always be sure to hold a line going down, and be prepared to bail out at any time. This is great fun -- but ride safely! Always approach curves slowly and travel slowly when approaching hikers. Dismount and pull your bike off the the downhill side of the trail when encountering horses or mules.

Terrain: Riding trails, you are likely to encounter different terrain conditions. Among them are:

 

The Climb: A good riding style makes long climbs to the summit easier. A poor riding style, however, requires more effort, and will soon have you walking your bike. When climbing, it is important to remember that most of the traction comes from the rear wheel. A new type of riding balance, forward and back, comes into play: the symmetry of keeping one's body weight over the rear tire, while leaning forward to keep the front end on the ground. Choose a low gear ratio, and keep the effort steady and even. To climb in a slightly higher gear, it is possible to stand on the pedals and sway the bike from side to side. This is sometimes called "Climbing out of the Saddle." The motion is very much like climbing stairs and puts the complete body weight on each pedal. This works well--but only if the traction is good.

Starting off on a hill: If you've stopped on a steep grade and need to get going again, the following technique works well: If you aren't already in a lower gear, move the shift lever and, while holding the rear wheel off the ground, move the pedal with your other hand until the chain slips into a lower gear. Push down on the high pedal and mount very quickly. Be prepared to pedal rapidly to keep your balance and prevent spin-out.

The Descent: Control your speed with the rear brake, using light touches on the front brake only when absolutely necessary. Too much front brake and you'll go over the handle bars! Sit way back on the saddle, to the point of hanging your bottom off the back on very steep terrain.

Braking: Though seemingly obvious, this is critically important -- know which brake lever operates which brake. Even though mechanically the front brake is applying more stopping power, the rear brake helps slow overall speed, as well as causing your body weight to shift backward to keep you and your rear wheel from becoming airborne. If there is any doubt, squeeze both brakes simultaneously.

Obstacles: You don't always have the option of going around something in your path. On narrow trails particularly, obstacles must be negotiated in other ways. There are occasionally, or sometimes frequently, obstructions ranging from ditches to fallen trees or boulders. A common obstacle on mountainous trails are waterbars--earth or wooden trenches to funnel water runoff. Slide rearward in the saddle to place more weight over the rear tire, and less over the front. Reduce speed slightly. With careful timing, lift up on the handlebars and push them forward. Apply pressure to your cranks if you need extra torque. With the front tire on the obstacle, quickly transfer your weight by moving forward, so that the rear wheel travels nicely behind, with little or no drag.

Jumping: To jump over the obstacle, follow the exact same procedure above, with the exception that a little more speed is needed. As the front wheel clears, shift the body weight forward, so that the rear wheel will soar over the object as well. Be cautious to keep the front wheel in a straight line when hitting the ground, as a wobbling wheel can cause a nasty spill. This same technique works when riding through a depression in the track. As the front wheel hits the low point of the depression, pull up on the handlebars. As you ride out of it, shift your weight toward the front, pulling up on the rear. All of these methods help to avoid a pinched tube or damage to the rim.

Falling: As a general rule, ride your bike as you would drive your car. Keep a conscientious eye out for other cyclists, hikers, horses and startled animals. Verify that the road ahead of you is clear. Be alert and aware. Be considerate.

Avoiding accidents is the method of choice--clearly. The simplest way to do this is to control your speed. Think ahead and allow time to handle the unexpected. Remember, you're guiding the force of momentum down a mountain on two wheels.
A common wipe-out is by taking turns sharper than expected, where you have not properly slowed down. The momentum continues straight on or on the outside arc, and you do not have enough time to correct and regain balance. Putting yourself in a position where the lean is excessive to hold the turn can cause the bike to slide out from under you.

Sometimes the terrain causes the fall. In the event of a ridge or gully, that runs parallel with the trail, try crossing as close to a ninety degree angle as possible. When encountering loose gravel or sand, mud, fallen leaves, or anything else not stable, it is best to keep the bike straight up and down, go straight ahead, and let the momentum carry you through.